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It is clear that acne cannot be avoided by a little “preventive maintenance.”
For this reason both doctors and patients often focus their attention on
several larger issues in which there is some potential to influence the course
of the skin problem. These factors include skin hygiene, climate, diet, and
stress.
Skin Hygiene
It can be said unequivocally that acne has nothing to do with “dirty” skin. As
we have already learned, blackheads are not dirt but are impactions or
collections of dead skin cells and oil found inside the follicle opening.
Certainly acne-prone skin is apt to be oilier than healthy skin, but the
bacteria living on the skin surface are much the same in people with acne as in
those without acne. Moreover, the bacteria that are involved in the acne process
live deep inside the follicle and sebaceous gland. Washing the skin frequently
or vigorously does little to reduce the number of these acne bacteria or
diminish their activity in acne inflammation.
Cleaning the skin as a form of treatment remains popular, but vigorous cleansing
can actually make the acne worse by damaging the already weakened follicles.
Climate
Acne has no respect for climate or weather. The disease is found in all regions
of the world, hot or cold, wet or dry. Sunny climes produce as many acne
sufferers as the more temperate areas.
The long-held impression that natural sunlight is good treatment for acne is
open to question for two reasons. First, only 50 percent of acne patients
improve with sun exposure and tanning. The remaining 50 percent experience no
change or a worsening of the condition. Sun-induced flare-ups of acne may occur
because the sun causes a thickening of the skin, which can contribute to the
blockage of follicles. In fact, “sun acne” on the back and shoulders is common
among lifeguards and other people who spend a lot of time at the beach. Second,
with the dramatic increase in all forms of skin cancer, which is thought to be
related to excessive sun exposure, dermatologists are reluctant to treat acne
with artificial ultraviolet light or encourage sunbathing, even for those who do
notice improvement of their acne during the summer months. High humidity is
another climatic factor that can promote acne. Presumably it is caused by
over hydration of the skin, as in the case of an ordinary heat rash, when the
skin gets saturated with water and the sweat pores and follicles are blocked. In
fact, high humidity rather than the sun may be the cause of some acne flare-ups
in the summer.
Diet
It is difficult to eliminate the widespread belief that certain foods can cause
acne. It is only in the past twenty years that doctors themselves have come to
realize that diet has little to do with the development of the disease. However,
many people still cling to the dietary factors as a probable cause of their acne
because of the erratic behavior of the disease and the lack of a better
explanation for sudden outbreaks.
The belief that chocolate causes acne was discarded years ago. A careful study
of chocolate eaters versus those who do not eat chocolate revealed no difference
in the severity of acne. Although very low calorie, starvation diets can
markedly decrease the amount of sebum produced by the oil glands, in the normal
dietary range there is no apparent relationship between calories consumed and
the severity of acne. Furthermore the kinds of foods eaten whether
carbohydrates, fat, or protein play no role in the development of acne.
Another common misconception suggests that an oily skin, a possible promoter of
acne, is directly related to the amount of oil consumed in the diet. Thus, oily
foods such as pizza and french fried potatoes should be taboo for individuals
who are acne-prone. The reality is that the oil glands produce sebum in
quantities that are quite independent of the amount of oil in the diet. For a
while there was speculation about the role of the halogen chemicals - iodine,
bromine, and fluorine in acne formation. These chemicals are found in some
foodstuffs and in medications. It is true that in rare cases, iodine or bromine
has caused acnelike skin reactions, but it is unlikely that the iodine present
in a normal diet, or the fluoride found in many toothpastes, can initiate or
aggravate acne. Nevertheless, lingering doubts and long-held dietary prejudices
encourage many dermatologists to play it safe and tell their acne patients to
avoid the particular foods that they believe aggravate their acne.
Stress and Emotional Factors
There is no doubt whatsoever that acne can create emotional problems for the
person who has it. Studies have shown that people with mild acne have much the
same psychological profile as people without acne, but people with severe acne
have a wide range of mild to severe emotional reactions, including anxiety,
depression, anger, and lowered self-esteem. To be sure, part of this emotional
reaction is related to our cultural values, which tend to overemphasize the
importance of the physical appearance, particularly the skin.
Evidence for the opposite situation, that our emotions can cause acne, is much
less obvious. There is some suggestion that occasional stress in some
individuals can cause acne to flare, as in the case of college students at exam
time, but the role of stress in the ups and downs of acne is generally
overestimated.
One aspect of the role of the emotions in causing acne is not at all
controversial. A condition called acne excoriee (excoriee means “scratched or
abraded”) takes in those acne sufferers who are chronic self-mutilators,
compulsively picking and squeezing pimples and damaging their skin far beyond
the injury caused by the acne condition itself. The severity of this emotional
problem varies. Mild pickers can break the habit themselves when the destructive
nature of their behavior is pointed out to them. Severe pickers, on the other
hand, who find tiny insignificant blemishes and turn them into large craters and
permanent scars, are more difficult to restrain and may require professional
counseling.
Despite the fact that currently accepted theories about the origins of acne
leave little room for prevention, and long accepted influences (particularly
stress and diet) are more mythical than real, there is no reason for despair.
Acne can be treated effectively and controlled, even cured.
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