Comedones
The first blemish to form as acne begins to appear is called a “comedone,”
and it is critical to all the blemishes that eventually develop. A
comedone is a plug that forms within the pilosebaceous duct. It is made up
of dead cells from the lining of the duct that are mixed with sebum
produced by the oil gland.

There are two types of comedones. The
open comedone, more familiarly called a blackhead, is visible on the skin
because the plug has formed in the surface opening of the duct.

Blackheads are not black because of
dirt; they take their color from the normal skin pigment that is within
the dead cells. The other type of comedone, the closed comedone or
whitehead, is a similar plug within the duct, but it is located deeper,
underneath the skin’s surface.

Closed comedones appear as small,
pale elevations, without any obvious openings.
Blackheads can usually be eliminated by gentle squeezing; whiteheads are
difficult to remove, requiring a puncture to open them and considerable
pressure to push out their contents. (The pros and cons of attempting to
remove comedones is discussed in detail in later chapters.) Black-heads
are unsightly, but it is the closed comedone that is responsible for other
blemishes that may develop.
Papules
The word papule is synonymous with the word pimple. Papules are firm, red
swellings of various sizes that appear on normal skin as another
manifestation of acne. Actually, most papules develop at the site of
closed comedones, but the comedone may be so tiny that it can be seen only
with a microscope. Sometimes papules are tender to the touch, but more
often they are not. Squeezing will not eliminate a papule because it is solid and
there is nothing to squeeze out. In fact, vigorous squeezing may injure
the skin, increase inflammation in the area, and actually enlarge the
papule. The best “first aid” treatments for papules are warm compresses
and drying creams or lotions.
Pustules
Pustules are small abscesses on the skin. They are soft pimples filled
with pus, which is made up of white blood cells. Pustules can be on the
surface of the skin or deep within it. Those that are superficial break
easily, either by themselves or by the process of washing, and they
disappear quickly, within three or four days. Deeper pustules, indicating
a more severe form of acne, are not easily broken and should not be
squeezed. Very large and deep pustules sometimes have to be incised and
drained by a dermatologist in order to prevent scarring.
Acne Cysts
Acne cysts are large areas of inflammation deep within the skin. Sometimes
they are formed by two or more adjacent blemishes coming together to form
a single, red, tender swelling. They are often filled with a thick, creamy
fluid made up of pus, dead cells, and sebum. Acne cysts are responsible
for most of the scarring associated with severe acne and consequently
require professional attention.
Macules
After acne blemishes subside, flat, reddened areas frequently remain on
the skin. These macules represent the end stage of the inflammatory
process. Unfortunately, they add to the cosmetic problem and may persist
for a long time, sometimes for months.
Hyperpigmentation
An increase in the brown skin pigment called melanin sometimes remains
after acne blemishes have healed, as it often does in other forms of
inflammation, such as sunburn. Like red macules, such hyperpigmentation
is not permanent, although it may be months before it fades away.
Bleaching creams are available but are not reliable and are best reserved
for the rare situation in which the hyperpigmentation fails to disappear
spontaneously.
Scars
Scars are permanent alterations in the normal structure of the skin. Many
people with cystic acne develop scars because of the destruction of
connective tissue in the deeper layers of skin. More surprising is the
fact that some people with relatively superficial acne blemishes also
develop scars. Thus, scarring seems to be an individual response to
inflammation and tissue damage. Furthermore, the type of scar that forms
can vary from person to person. One of the most obvious kinds of scar is
called a keloid. This is a large, pink, often oddly shaped mound of thick
scar tissue that forms at the site of the injury and subsequent healing.
Strangely, the amount of scar tissue in keloids is not always
proportionate to the severity of the acne, and seemingly minor blemishes
may lead to large keloids. Keloids most often occur on the chest and back
and less frequently on the face, jaw, or forehead.
Another common scar that can follow acne inflammation is called an “ice
pick” scar. As the name implies, this is a deep, pointlike depression, as
if a sharp object had been driven into the skin. Other scars may appear
where skin tissue has been lost; these form depressed areas, as if a
portion of the skin had been scooped out.
You should not assume that everyone who experiences acne will have all
these different blemishes. It is not uncommon to have mostly one type and
a scattering of some of the others. You might have comedone acne, in which
the outbreak is almost entirely made up of blackheads and closed comedones;
pustular acne, in which all the blemishes are pus pimples; or cystic acne,
in which deep cysts predominate. Which treatment is best depends on the
nature of the predominant blemish as well as on the overall severity of
the problem.
Although all the varieties of acne have features in common, several
unusual and distinctive forms of acne can be separated from the common
adolescent types. These conditions affect disparate age groups the very
young and the adult.